Here's where you'll save yourself time and grief later when you start to put your project back together. Be sure to label zip lock bags with the names and location of the small parts during disassembly and place them in a larger storage container so you can locate everything later. 

Now's the perfect time to make a list of those parts that are missing so you can start your search for replacements. 

Well all those year on the ranch and who knows where else took their tole on the poor little jeepster. We ended up having to cut out and replacing all the lower panel sections, the floor below the rear seat and up to the back of the front seat with new metal. 

We made sure to replace all floor metal before removing the body from the frame to place it on the rotisserie.  Once the body was on the rotisserie we sandblased the underside and applied two coats of DP-40.  After that we used some 3M Seam Sealer on all the floor seams before coating the floor with rubberized undercoating.  After-all this is going to be a driver! 

The firewall didn't come out unscathed either.  I can only imagine that the previous owner was trying to install a straight eight from the large sized torch job of a hole he cut into the firewall. 
 

 

We took the Jeepster down to bare metal with a combination of paint stripper and a DA sander. Luckly the Jeepster had only two coats of paint which speeded up the process. 

I don't care how good I clean and prep body seams, I always get rust re-appearing in those area's so that's the main reason I welded up all the seams and then some on the Jeepster.  The added plus in my opinion is that it smooths out the body lines and makes the vehicle look like it has that finishing touch about it.  I welded up the following seams on the Jeepster: 

a) Quarter Panel rear seams 
b) Rocker Sill seams below doors 
c) Cowl seam between hood and door 
d) All Fender seams (Moulded in the fenders) 
e) Fender Extension seams (with some minor contour changes) 
f) Front fender seams (by headlights) 
 

 The body was cleaned with wax and grease remover and then sprayed with DP40 a catalyzed primer that's very durable and prevents further rust from occurring. 

The bodywork was then completed relatively easy as most of the panels were massaged with an air straightline sander. 

We then applied a second coat of DP40 to sandwhich the filler which provided better protection from the elements. 

We then applied a several coats of K-200 which is a type of filler primer. The body was then sprayed with a light fog of black primer from a spray can for a guide coat. The guide coat is sanded with 400 wet and dry sand paper to locate any imperfections. Any imperfection found were then treated with a coat of catalyzed cream filler, sanded and reprimered with K-200, guide coated and sanded again.